At the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel, Great Langdale
He said:
Today, our route took us to the Great Langdale Valley for our stay at the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel in the higher fells and pikes of the Lake District. The hotel has been located here for 300 years, they say… The “U” shaped Great Langdale valley is perhaps 5 miles long, and surrounded by peaks as high as 3500’ in elevation. The walkers and climbers are seen everywhere, walking up serpentine paths or climbing straight up the rocky faces of the pikes. Today, the weather turned sunny and warm finally, what a change. As we walked up the valley, and sun felt downright hot, I suppose we are not used to it now after so much rain, cold, and wind. After all the rain, the hills, fells, and pikes are covered in the bright greens of grasses, the dark greens of trees, and the grays and browns of slate, rocks, and earth. We are looking forward to our last walking day tomorrow because of the scenery and weather forecast, but wishing it was not the last walk. I would like to go on walking for at least another week or two, but we are so lucky to be able to this at all I suppose.
She said:
June 2
Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel, Great Langdale Valley
A few last words about our hosts at the Yewdale Hotel in Coniston – Beverley and Peter were definitely the nicest and friendliest people we’ve had as innkeepers. They are sweet and accommodating and since they are also very well-travelled, we may use them as a resource for future trips. Our stay at their hotel was perfect.
Yet another day of a taxi ride onward instead of a hike. We arrived at the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel late morning and settled in to our enormous room with big views to the valley and the hills. We sat in comfortable chairs in front of our tall windows and just looked at the scenery and listened to the birds – for a couple of hours! Seems we have the relaxing thing down pat. We did a trial hike (for me) in the afternoon, up the valley floor. The sun was out in full force and the temp felt like about 70-75. Blue sky, puffy clouds – really a shocker to us after 10 days of intermittently crappy weather. This is the optimal hiking that we love.
Out hotel is a National Trust property – old and rambling and stately and lovely. It’s the only establishment for miles, and also at the confluence of several trailheads, so there is plenty of activity and the courtyard is always full of walkers, families and dogs. Everyone is beside themselves with happiness over their good fortune to be here in this (finally) glorious weather. We stopped in our “residents only” bar for a couple of pints and an early supper and were on our own until about halfway through our meal when a party of 14 joined us. These friends from Cambridge have been coming to this hotel for years. They were fun and jolly and wrapped us up in their group. It was a mutual admiration society – we gushed over their great country and they went on about our excellent state (those who had been to CA.) I was wearing my Obama t-shirt and they also went on about him – they love him and urged us to not let anyone else win the next election. From their lips to God’s ear.
Since I have now advanced to a cautious “fair-to-good” health-wise, we’re optimistic that we will have a successful hike tomorrow, either from here to Ambleside, or as a circular walk once we arrive at our final Lake District destination, the Rothay Manor.
It’s twilight now and the huge rhododendron bushes (trees!) outside our window are in full bloom – their lavender flowers a perfect counterpoint to the green everywhere.
Pure peace.
