Looking back on our trip, adding a merged photo album

River Wharfe, sunny spell on the way to Burnsall

He said:
We have been home now for almost 2 weeks, having mostly, but not fully, recovered from whatever bug we had caught somewhere in Yorkshire.  In the last few days, I look back happily on our trip as I constructed and merged the panoramic and HDR photos I had taken.  I was reminded of the brief, but wonderful sunny spells we enjoyed just after, or just before the rain, showers, drizzle, and drab.  I was reminded of the wind, quite strong at times, that gave us such refreshing and clear air, while at times almost blowing us over.  I thought of the changes to the Wharfe as we walked nearer to its source, happy in the thought that the river, and the surrounding area is protected from development as part of the Yorkshire Dales National Park.

The upper reaches of Wharfedale after a shower

Photography, as I practice it, does not fully convey the feeling of gray, soggy days in a way to make the viewer really feel as we did.  But that soggy day hiking up boggy trails does lead to our happy stay for the night, even those days are to be celebrated.

Here is the link to the merged photo album:

London, June 5

He said:

We're done with our visit to the Lake District and have arrived in London.  Today, we paid a visit to the Science Museum, which has a large collection of historical items from many fields of science, including the last few centuries.  We are back in our room looking out of the window into the gray rainy gloom.  How fitting that I should now have a worse cold in preparation for our flight back home.

She said:

June 5

Park International Hotel, London

Morning

As expected, we had a dreamy, relaxing train ride yesterday from the Lake District to London.  Our taxi from Rothay Manor to the train station at Windermere drove us by Lake Windermere, a beautiful sight.  It’s easy to see why the British are gaga over the Lake District – most of their country is flat or with very small rolling hills.  The Lake District has some good-sized peaks and, well, lakes.  It is a huge tourist destination for Brits and we did find it somewhat clogged.  Put us off a bit as we expect clogged in London but clogged in the countryside seems wrong.  All that nice Nature gunked up by humans.

London hotel good – worked it and got a better room than first shown to us.  We walked in our posh neighborhood then hightailed it to the nearby Waitrose (like Safeway) and bought a roast chicken, salad stuff and, glory of glories, Sonoma Cutrer chardonnay.  Ate in our room overlooking the busy street below.

R now has my bad cold.

Things are quiet on the street this morning – Sunday. 

We plan to visit the Science Museum this morning and the Saatchi Gallery in Chelsea this afternoon.  I was at the Saatchi in April and loved it.  They have a new exhibit – entirely large-scale sculpture, which is my favorite – so I look forward to that.

Now, shower and breakfast.

Afternoon

Back from the Science Museum – good stuff, similar to our Smithsonian Museums in D.C.  Wandered through a James Watt exhibit – giant steam engines, Industrial Revolution timeline and how everything now is because of then (75% of power is still generated by steam – I did not know that.)  Another interesting exhibit was the History of Medicine.  On that one, suffice to say that it’s a good thing to be alive now.  Medicine leading up to now was superstitious at best and barbaric at worst.  (The OB/GYN instruments were scary.)

We’re in our third room here at The Park International – first was too small and looked out at the giant air conditioning fans, the second was too hot (giant air conditioning fans didn’t work for that room) and the third (present) is just right – top floor, lots of room, big views, good temps.

Had hoped to see the new Saatchi exhibit but now R is sick and since it’s pouring rain I’m happy to stay in for the rest of the day and read.  The French Open is on and we are cozy.  

A Beautiful Day in Ambleside, June 3

He said:

I really wish we were able to hike up a fell or pike today, the weather was great, perhaps a bit warm in the sun while climbing a hill, but as they say here “brilliant”.  We made our way to the town of Ambleside at the north end of Windermere, one of the largest lakes in England.  Ambleside is a true tourist town, with constant car and truck traffic going through it, shoppers clogging the streets, and so many shops selling outdoor and mountaineering items guaranteed to restore your youth and make you a legend.  I must say, some of the most out of shape people set out and really do climb to the tops of these hills, not that these are the Alps, but they do have steep uphills and downhills and loads of loose rocks.  The people of the UK are much more adventurous than the average person in the US (just my opinion).  Perhaps it’s that they feel so cooped up through the winter, that they really must get out and give it a go, especially when the weather is good (which seems to be rare up here).  It’s not unusual for a British hiker to walk 15 to 25 miles in a day, even the ‘older’ hikers.  Hats off!

She said:

June 3

Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel, Great Langdale to Rothay Manor, Ambleside

Our last day of walking – blue sky and sunshine!  We did taxi to the Rothay Manor but then walked around the town.  Ambleside seems to be a big destination, though we couldn’t quite work out why.  It has some cheesy shops, loads of B&Bs and Guest Houses, some iffy restaurants and more outdoor/hiking/climbing equipment stores than I have ever seen in one place.  Really, there are probably 15 REI-type shops in Ambleside.  This is curious as most of the tourists that we saw in Ambleside do not look like they would be happy hiking or climbing at all.

So much in life is a mystery.

We ate lunch off the main street down by a sweet stream in a tiny restaurant – excellent homemade hummus and sun-dried tomato sandwich, the best lemonade (R had a ginger beer) and a sampler plate of 5 desserts.  This was all in keeping with our unplanned program, against all odds, of actually gaining weight on our walking trip.  Sad, but true.

The Rothay Manor is a nice, over-the-top English hotel.  Our bathroom is bigger than my entire studio apartment was at the President Apartments on University Avenue.  Everything is big and grand and very fluffy and manicured.  To wit: I am sitting on our lovely balcony overlooking the green grounds and the croquet lawn.  A half block away is the lawn bowling club (alas, our train to London is too early tomorrow for me to get in a set - game? - of bowls.)

Ties at dinner.  R did bring one but we felt like hanging on our patio in our sweats instead of dressing for dinner so we shopped in town for a tasty Happy Hour food and beat the 100 pound dinner tab with cheese, olives, crisps, nuts, tomatoes and sliced turkey (8 pounds.)

London will bleed us dry, so might as well save our money for a place where I will actually be able to get as much buttery, creamy chardonnay that I can handle, no matter what the cost.  Can’t wait.

Health is solidly in “good.”  I’m sure I’ll be “very good” by the time we leave London and maybe even “excellent” when we get home.  Ironic is not quite the right word, but you probably get my drift.

Looking forward to London, as I always do.  It is my favorite city.

(Also looking forward to the train ride there.  First Class.  Very civilized.)     

Great Langdale Sunshine

At the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel, Great Langdale

He said:

Today, our route took us to the Great Langdale Valley for our stay at the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel in the higher fells and pikes of the Lake District.  The hotel has been located here for 300 years, they say…  The “U” shaped Great Langdale valley is perhaps 5 miles long, and surrounded by peaks as high as 3500’ in elevation.  The walkers and climbers are seen everywhere, walking up serpentine paths or climbing straight up the rocky faces of the pikes.  Today, the weather turned sunny and warm finally, what a change.  As we walked up the valley, and sun felt downright hot, I suppose we are not used to it now after so much rain, cold, and wind.  After all the rain, the hills, fells, and pikes are covered in the bright greens of grasses, the dark greens of trees, and the grays and browns of slate, rocks, and earth.  We are looking forward to our last walking day tomorrow because of the scenery and weather forecast, but wishing it was not the last walk.  I would like to go on walking for at least another week or two, but we are so lucky to be able to this at all I suppose.

She said:

June 2

Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel, Great Langdale Valley

A few last words about our hosts at the Yewdale Hotel in Coniston – Beverley and Peter were definitely the nicest and friendliest people we’ve had as innkeepers.  They are sweet and accommodating and since they are also very well-travelled, we may use them as a resource for future trips.  Our stay at their hotel was perfect.

Yet another day of a taxi ride onward instead of a hike.  We arrived at the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel late morning and settled in to our enormous room with big views to the valley and the hills. We sat in comfortable chairs in front of our tall windows and just looked at the scenery and listened to the birds – for a couple of hours!  Seems we have the relaxing thing down pat.  We did a trial hike (for me) in the afternoon, up the valley floor.  The sun was out in full force and the temp felt like about 70-75.  Blue sky, puffy clouds – really a shocker to us after 10 days of intermittently crappy weather.  This is the optimal hiking that we love.

Out hotel is a National Trust property – old and rambling and stately and lovely.  It’s the only establishment for miles, and also at the confluence of several trailheads, so there is plenty of activity and the courtyard is always full of walkers, families and dogs.  Everyone is beside themselves with happiness over their good fortune to be here in this (finally) glorious weather.  We stopped in our “residents only” bar for a couple of pints and an early supper and were on our own until about halfway through our meal when a party of 14 joined us.  These friends from Cambridge have been coming to this hotel for years.  They were fun and jolly and wrapped us up in their group.  It was a mutual admiration society – we gushed over their great country and they went on about our excellent state (those who had been to CA.)  I was wearing my Obama t-shirt and they also went on about him – they love him and urged us to not let anyone else win the next election.  From their lips to God’s ear.

Since I have now advanced to a cautious “fair-to-good” health-wise, we’re optimistic that we will have a successful hike tomorrow, either from here to Ambleside, or as a circular walk once we arrive at our final Lake District destination, the Rothay Manor.

It’s twilight now and the huge rhododendron bushes (trees!) outside our window are in full bloom – their lavender flowers a perfect counterpoint to the green everywhere.

Pure peace.

Coniston Rest, June 1

He said:

Today was supposed to be a rest day in Coniston, and indeed it was that.

She said:

June 1

Yewdale Hotel, Coniston

Last night, while channel surfing, R and I came upon one of our all-time favorite British shows – one that we’ve searched for on previous trips but hadn’t found in years – SpringWatch.  This crazy show is set in various locations in the UK every Spring.  Several naturalists and video photographers rig mini-cams in every imaginable possible nesting site across the countryside and on nature preserves and record bird courtships, births, feedings and fledges.  It is a fascinating look inside a bit of Nature that we certainly would never normally see.  The show airs for only 3-4 weeks each Spring.  Last night we watched great spotted woodpeckers fledge, herons feed and owls eat their younger, weaker siblings.  Cracking good TV.  Will, of course, watch it again tonight.

Woke this morning hopeful for a health upgrade to a steady “good” but was disappointed as my stupid cold has now lodged firmly in my chest so I’m still at “fair.”  Coughing is plentiful and painful.  Hiking is not an option.  The day is long.

In our effort to stave off boredom, R and I enjoyed a Martin Clunes YouTube marathon: Reggie Perrin, Seasons 1 and 2; Martin Clunes, A Man and His Dogs; Horsepower.  Funny and interesting.

Oddly, even though I’m sick and R is feeling some weird throat stuff (uhoh) and we’re stuck in B&B/inn/hotel room after room, we’re still having a good time.  We’re relaxed, rested and silly.  We’re eating in our rooms and hanging around in comfortable sweats and underwear.  We’re reading and napping.  Really, everything we always wished we would do on vacation but never get around to doing because we’re always on the go.

Love the wisdom of the Cosmos.

Though I’m ready to be well.

(Gray day, intermittent rain.)     

Coniston in the Lake District, May 31

Coniston, and Coniston Water as seen from "the rock"

He said:

We had a quick taxi ride this morning  to our new stay in Coniston, a town on the edge of a lake (Coniston Water), and the edge of the more rugged hills and fells of the southern Lake District.  E stayed in to recover, I took off up the hill to the west to have a look and take some photos.  The weather was cool and partly cloudy to sunny, the sun showed through more than in the past week or longer.  There is the promise of a brighter tomorrow.

She said:

May 31

The King’s Arms, Hawkshead to The Yewdale Hotel, Coniston

by taxi

The most gracious hosts, Peter and Beverley (and their little dog, Millie) welcomed us early to the Yewdale Hotel.  I’m still feeling lousy, but have upgraded myself from poor to solidly in fair.  Lolled around in the room again.  R hiked and shopped for our provisions (expectorant for me – tmi?)  I’m sick to death of this bug and bored out of my mind.  Rallied minimally late afternoon for a walk around town and down to the lakeside.  Lovely.

Cautiously optimistic about a short hike tomorrow.

And, since I’m still in, it is, of course, sunny today.

On to Hawkshead, Lake District, May 30

16th century Hawkshead Church

He said:

Today we were able to jump back into our plan by catching a taxi from Sedbergh to Hawkshead.  We had a nice relaxing stay in Sedbergh at a great B&B.  The day started off with rain and drizzle, but no wind for a change.  We arrived in Hawkshead at noon then spent some time looking around the village and the 16^th century church.  This village is crowded with tourists and families with kids; it seems that this end of the May Bank Holiday also coincides with a 1-2 week break from school.  We haven’t seen this many people since London.  We were tourists ourselves, of course, visiting one tea room of many, and later having soup and bread for lunch at yet another tea room a block away.  The tea rooms are open midday until dinner time, tea time is 4PM, and a "tea" order generally includes sweets, snacks, and clotted cream (halfway between whipped cream and butter), toast, etc...  so it's more than a snack.  Tomorrow, I hope that we can walk to our next village, I’m looking forward to getting back in step with that hidden rhythm that marches on.

She said:

May 30

Summerhill B&B, Sedbergh to The King’s Arms, Hawkshead

by taxi

Woke this morning feeling poor to fair, a vast improvement on yesterday’s and last night’s bad.    I showered and brushed my teeth and took my time doing both.  Two tasks that I do perfunctorily each day became this morning welcome and luxurious – 24 hours of cough drops, night sweats and mucous will do that.

So, I’m among the living again.  Woohoo.

Not to say I’m recovered, far from it.  Still weak and tired and thinking 10 miles of walking in the rain would be a relapse waiting to happen (and, of course, it was drizzling this morning,) so I was happy to take that 45 minute taxi ride past Ambleside and the beautiful Rothay Manor which everyone said was an absolute dream to stay in and arrive at Hawkshead and the King’s Arms Inn of which everyone said Oh yes, the King’s Arms.

The King’s Arms is a classic old English inn and pub (500 years old, in fact) and while that’s quaint as hell it is also small and beery and creaky and loud.  But the bed seems good and the Guinness makes R happy, so here we are for the night.

This is The Lake District.

This is also Beatrix Potter country, though that interests me not one bit.

There is a gorgeous church and churchyard up on the hill that offers spectacular views over the surrounding countryside.  The village’s tiny streets are warren-like and the houses are, well, 500 years old.  Great flowers everywhere.  Excellent tea shops.  And Peter Rabbit on every saleable item you can think of – tea towels, garden tools, neckties, sippy cups, spatulas, t-shirts, aprons, placemats and panties.  (I made the panties part up.)  The place is pretty packed, too – it being a Bank Holiday and kids off from school this week.

We’ve been used to relative solitude on the trails so all these people (families) are freaking us (me) out a bit.

R has gone up the hill to the church with his camera to catch the good light on the hills and the town.  I’m in bed, looking down at the small square.  The day trippers have left.

We didn’t walk today.

And, it’s sunny.