On to Hawkshead, Lake District, May 30

16th century Hawkshead Church

He said:

Today we were able to jump back into our plan by catching a taxi from Sedbergh to Hawkshead.  We had a nice relaxing stay in Sedbergh at a great B&B.  The day started off with rain and drizzle, but no wind for a change.  We arrived in Hawkshead at noon then spent some time looking around the village and the 16^th century church.  This village is crowded with tourists and families with kids; it seems that this end of the May Bank Holiday also coincides with a 1-2 week break from school.  We haven’t seen this many people since London.  We were tourists ourselves, of course, visiting one tea room of many, and later having soup and bread for lunch at yet another tea room a block away.  The tea rooms are open midday until dinner time, tea time is 4PM, and a "tea" order generally includes sweets, snacks, and clotted cream (halfway between whipped cream and butter), toast, etc...  so it's more than a snack.  Tomorrow, I hope that we can walk to our next village, I’m looking forward to getting back in step with that hidden rhythm that marches on.

She said:

May 30

Summerhill B&B, Sedbergh to The King’s Arms, Hawkshead

by taxi

Woke this morning feeling poor to fair, a vast improvement on yesterday’s and last night’s bad.    I showered and brushed my teeth and took my time doing both.  Two tasks that I do perfunctorily each day became this morning welcome and luxurious – 24 hours of cough drops, night sweats and mucous will do that.

So, I’m among the living again.  Woohoo.

Not to say I’m recovered, far from it.  Still weak and tired and thinking 10 miles of walking in the rain would be a relapse waiting to happen (and, of course, it was drizzling this morning,) so I was happy to take that 45 minute taxi ride past Ambleside and the beautiful Rothay Manor which everyone said was an absolute dream to stay in and arrive at Hawkshead and the King’s Arms Inn of which everyone said Oh yes, the King’s Arms.

The King’s Arms is a classic old English inn and pub (500 years old, in fact) and while that’s quaint as hell it is also small and beery and creaky and loud.  But the bed seems good and the Guinness makes R happy, so here we are for the night.

This is The Lake District.

This is also Beatrix Potter country, though that interests me not one bit.

There is a gorgeous church and churchyard up on the hill that offers spectacular views over the surrounding countryside.  The village’s tiny streets are warren-like and the houses are, well, 500 years old.  Great flowers everywhere.  Excellent tea shops.  And Peter Rabbit on every saleable item you can think of – tea towels, garden tools, neckties, sippy cups, spatulas, t-shirts, aprons, placemats and panties.  (I made the panties part up.)  The place is pretty packed, too – it being a Bank Holiday and kids off from school this week.

We’ve been used to relative solitude on the trails so all these people (families) are freaking us (me) out a bit.

R has gone up the hill to the church with his camera to catch the good light on the hills and the town.  I’m in bed, looking down at the small square.  The day trippers have left.

We didn’t walk today.

And, it’s sunny.